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There are other animals too: cows, sheep, hundreds of squirrels, plus, bizarrely enough, a large colony of bright-green parakeets. During the summer the park regularly hosts free concerts and theatrical performances, mostly in its own specially designed open-air theatre. There are several screenings nightly, plus regular matinees, and the programme often follows a prescribed theme or subject.

Look out also for news of the free screenings of classic movies in the summer. Also inflatable and illuminated globes. Edgar Vos P. Flagship store of the Dutch haute couture designer — power dressing for women and a good casual range too. Work on the church, which was designed by Cuypers — the architect of Centraal Station and the Rijksmuseum — began in , but the finances ran out the following year and the building was not completed till the s.

Twenty years later it was struck by lightning and in the ensuing fire its tower was burnt to a cinder — the present one was added much later.

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The church always struggled to find a decent-sized congregation, but limped on until it was finally deconsecrated in , being turned into offices thereafter. The club sandwiches are pricey but good, but the coffee could be better. Brouwersstraat Daily 5pm—1am. Inexpensive Greek restaurant a little to the south of Leidseplein, with the distinct added advantage of serving until 1am.

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Lovely corner restaurant on a busy canal. Belgian and fusion cuisine and a huge range of bottled Belgian beers to enjoy on their summer terrace. Just outside the other entrance to the Vondelpark, across the cyclist bridge. Moderately priced. Daily 6—11pm, Mon—Fri also noon—2pm. An eclectic French and Italian menu; call to reserve a week ahead, dress to impress and bring at least e35 or so per person. One of the two best steakhouses in town the other one being Piet de Leeuw, see p. Kitchen open 11am—10pm, closed on Sun, Sat no lunch.

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Daily 9am till late. Moderate to expensive Indonesian restaurant. Excellently prepared dishes, with a wide range to choose from; vegetarians are very well taken care of, and the service is generally good. Expect to pay around e25 for a rijsttafel. Sama Sebo P. Peaceful terrace on the Amstelveen side of the Vondelpark serving tapas, fresh salads and pancakes, next to the in-line skate rental.

A picnic or barbecue in the park including skate rental can be arranged for around e Wildschut Roelof Hartplein 1. Large and con- genial bar famous for its Art Deco trimmings. Not far from the Concertgebouw and with examples of the Amsterdam School of Architecture. They made the most of the arrangement and constructed long rows of cheaply built and largely featureless fiveand six-storey buildings and it is these which still dominate the area today. Tues—Sun 10am—6pm.

Since then, Heineken has developed the site as a tourist attraction with displays on the history of beermaking in general and Heineken in particular. The daily general market held here — which stretches for over a kilometre between Ferdinand Bolstraat and Van Woustraat — is the largest in the city, with a huge array of stalls selling everything from cutprice carrots and raw-herring Contents Places Leafy Sarphatipark provides a welcome splash of greenery amongst the surrounding brick and concrete.

The park, complete with footpaths and a sinewy lake, was laid out before the construction of De Pijp got underway, and was initially intended as a place for the bourgeoisie to take a picnic. The Nieuw Zuid Southwest of De Pijp, the Nieuw Zuid New South was the first properly planned extension to the city since the concentric canals of the seventeenth century.

Tues—Sun 11am—5pm. A great modern building housing works from the influential CoBrA movement, well worth the trip out. Decent temporary exhibitions too. Napoleon staged a triumphal entry into the city through here in , but his imperial pleasure was tempered by his half-starved troops, who could barely be restrained from helping themselves in a city of what was to them amazing luxury.

Daily 10am—5pm. The collection is imaginatively presented in a variety of media — slides, DVDs and sound recordings — and there are also creative and engaging displays devoted to such subjects as music-making and puppetry, as well as traditional storytelling. The outer districts PLACES look in on the bookshop, which has a good selection of titles on the developing world, and try the inexpensive restaurant, the Ekeko, which serves tropical snacks and lunches, including popular national dishes from the exhibited countries.

Albert Cuypstraat What better place to round off your visit to the market than to sample the delights of this excellent — and typical — Dutch fish stall. Closed Sat. The only thing on offer here is water — over different types of bottled mineral water from all over the world. Try the wonderful German Statl Fasching. Not everything they serve is shown on the menu, so keep an eye on the glass showcase in front of the kitchen for any specials.

No bookings, so just turn up and hope for the best. The two restaurants in this Greenhouse Tolstraat Also branches nearer to the centre at Waterlooplein and O.

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Voorburgwal Reckon on at least e50 per person. Advance booking essential. Excellent Turkish eatery down in the De Pijp neighbourhood. Popular with students.


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Daily except Tues 11am—8pm. Surinamese takeaway and popular hangout for lunch, rapidly gaining a loyal clientele. Lively atmosphere. Granny 1e van der Helststraat Tues—Sun 5—9. Well-prepared organic dishes in this cooperative-run restaurant near the Albert Cuyp. Popular no-frills Kurdish restaurant run by four brothers. Serves inexpensive traditional dishes from around e3 for starters and e11 for lamb and chicken mains.

Vegetarian food available too. Sarphatipark 2. On the corner of 1e van der Helststraat, a few metres from the Albert Cuyp, this is an atmospheric and lively place. Drinks and snacks all day long from 11am. East of Eden Linnaeusstraat Appealing combination of high-ceilinged splendour and gently waving palm trees, with James Dean thrown in to boot. A good way to spend a sunny afternoon.

One of the more inti- mate bars along this road, with board games and a large selection of rum.

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From March to November the pavement tables become a pleasant terrace for people-watching. Open Fridays and Saturdays 11pm—4am, with occasional Salsa nights and special parties hosted on a Sunday. Tram 6 from Centraal Station. Tues—Sun 5pm—1am. Tasteful wine bar close to Albert Cuypstraat market with a huge selection of wines from around the world, all available by the glass.

A heated terrace provides alfresco eating even in the cooler months, and the French restaurant offers seafood delights such as a dozen oysters for around e To the north of Amsterdam, the most obvious targets are the old seaports bordering the freshwater Ijsselmeer and Markermeer lakes, formerly — before the enclosing dykes were put in — the choppy and notoriously unpredictable saltwater Zuider Zee. Edam is, of course, famous for its cheese, but its open-air cheese market is not a patch on that of Alkmaar, an amiable small town forty minutes by train north from Amsterdam.

On the way, most trains pause at KoogZaandijk, the nearest station to the windmills and canals of the recreated Dutch village of Zaanse Schans, which illustrates eighteenth-century rural life. The real Contents Places draw, however, is the outstanding Frans Hals Museum, located in the almshouse where the artist spent his last, and for some his most brilliant, years.

The museum holds a relatively small but eclectic collection of Dutch paintings from the fifteenth century onwards and features a handful of prime works by Hals. There are those who claim Hals had lost his touch by the time he painted these pictures, yet the sinister, almost ghostly power of the regents facing each other across the room suggests quite the opposite. The Keukenhof Gardens w www. Late March to late May daily 8am—7. The pancake-flat fields extending south from Haarlem towards Leiden are the heart of the Dutch bulbfields, whose bulbs and blooms support a billion-dollar industry and some ten thousand growers, as well as attracting tourists in their droves.

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Some seven million flowers are on show for their full flowering period, complemented, in case of especially harsh winters, by square metres of glasshouses holding indoor displays. You could easily spend a whole day here, swooning among the sheer abundance of it all, but to get the best of it you need to come early, before the tour buses pack the place. There are several restaurants in the 28 hectares of grounds, and wellmarked paths take you all the way through the gardens, which specialize in daffodils, hyacinths and tulips.

To get to the Keukenhof by public transport from Amsterdam or Haarlem , take the train to Leiden every 20min and then catch bus 54 every 30min from the adjacent bus station.